How Dr. Althea 345 Relief Cream Helps With Retinoid Dryness in the UK
Dr. Althea 345 Relief Cream is a light moisturizer, not a retinoid and not an azelaic acid product. It can sit alongside tretinoin or azelaic acid as the comfort layer. It does not replace either one. It works to support hydration and ease the tight, dry feel that retinoid routines often bring.
Many UK users first see this cream on social media, usually next to a retinoid tube. That pairing can make it look like a spot or mark product in its own right. We found the most common mix up is whether it does the same job as azelaic acid. It does not, and knowing why makes planning a routine much simpler.
What Is in Dr. Althea 345 Relief Cream?

The 345 cream is a water based gel cream built around niacinamide, panthenol, ceramide NP and centella. It also contains hyaluronic acid, beta glucan, resveratrol and tea tree leaf water. It contains no tretinoin, no retinol and no azelaic acid. The brand describes it as a daily moisturizer for spot prone and sensitive skin. Compare tretinoin and retinal if you are choosing a vitamin A product alongside your moisturizer.
The name comes from three ingredient groups. The brand lists three for blemish care, four for nourishing and five for soothing. In plain terms, the formula hydrates, softens and calms. It does not exfoliate, and it does not speed up skin cell turnover.
The 3, 4 and 5 Ingredient Groups in Plain Terms
Each group has a simple role. The blemish care group helps with oil balance and the look of marks. The nourishing group helps skin hold on to water. The soothing group is there to make stressed skin feel calmer.
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Blemish care (3): niacinamide, resveratrol and tannic acid. Niacinamide may help with uneven tone and visible redness over time.
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Nourishing (4): ceramide NP, beta glucan, hydrolysed hyaluronic acid and rice bran PDRN, listed as sodium DNA.
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Soothing (5): centella asiatica, madecassoside, green tea leaf water, tea tree leaf water and centella PDRN.
Panthenol and glycerin sit high on the ingredient list too. Both are familiar comfort ingredients in moisturizers for dry or sensitized skin. Silicones give the formula a smooth, slightly slippy finish. That finish is why many people find it layers well under SPF.
Why the Formula on Your Box May Differ
Dr. Althea has renewed the 345 cream, and both versions still circulate in UK shops. The older version listed lavender flower extract and no tea tree leaf water. The renewed version adds tea tree leaf water, tannic acid and PDRN. Always check the ingredient list printed on your own box.
This matters if your skin dislikes certain plant extracts. Some people react to tea trees, even in a diluted water form. Others react to lavender. A good or bad experience with one version may not repeat with the other.
Is the 345 Cream Substitute for Tretinoin or Azelaic Acid?
No, the 345 cream is a supporting moisturizer, while tretinoin and azelaic acid do the heavier work. Tretinoin speeds up skin cell turnover. Azelaic acid targets spots, visible redness and the pigment behind marks. The 345 cream mainly keeps skin hydrated and comfortable while they work.
Searches such as "345 cream vs azelaic acid" suggest some people see them as rivals. They are better thought of as partners with different jobs. Niacinamide gives the 345 cream a mild tone benefit. Even so, a moisturizer with niacinamide works on a gentler scale than a dedicated azelaic acid product. Hydroquinone cream 4% and Triluma Cream 15g are separate pigmentation treatments that need professional advice. Our tretinoin and hydroquinone routine guide and Skinshine cream guide explain precautions for different combinations.
|
Feature |
Dr. Althea 345 Relief Cream |
Tretinoin |
Azelaic acid |
|
What it is |
Gel cream moisturizer |
Retinoid, a form of vitamin A |
Acid found naturally in grains such as barley |
|
Main role |
Hydration, comfort and barrier support |
Faster cell turnover, clearer pores, smoother texture |
Spots, visible redness and post spot marks |
|
Time of day |
Morning and evening |
Evening only |
Morning or evening |
|
Common side effects |
Uncommon; some notice clogged pores or stinging |
Dryness, peeling, redness and sun sensitivity |
Brief tingling, itching or dryness |
|
When change shows |
Comfort within days |
Often 8 to 12 weeks or longer |
Often 8 to 12 weeks |
|
Place in the routine |
Last step before SPF, or around tretinoin |
Applied to clean, fully dry skin |
Applied to clean skin, before moisturizer |
Using Dr. Althea 345 Relief Cream With Tretinoin

Yes, the 345 cream can be used with tretinoin, and many people choose it for exactly this. Apply tretinoin cream to clean, dry skin in the evening, then the cream on top. If your skin feels raw, a thin layer underneath can soften the sting. That buffer layer may slow results slightly, which often suits sensitive skin.
Tretinoin often causes dryness, flaking and tightness in the first weeks. People often call this the adjustment phase, or retinization. The 345 cream fits this phase well because it is light and contains no exfoliating acids. It adds water and comfort without adding more irritation. Our tretinoin cream results timeline separates early dryness from later changes in breakouts, marks and fine lines.
Before Tretinoin, After It, or Both?
There are three common ways to layer the two products. Each suits a different stage of skin tolerance. You can move between them as your skin settles.
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After only: tretinoin on dry skin, wait 10 to 20 minutes, then the cream. This suits skin that already tolerates tretinoin.
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Before only, often called buffering: cream first, let it settle, then tretinoin. This suits the first few weeks.
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Sandwich: a thin layer of cream, then tretinoin, then another layer of cream. This suits very dry or easily stung skin.
The brand itself suggests the sandwich method alongside stronger skincare. Buffering may make tretinoin feel gentler on the skin. It may also slow visible change a little. For most people, that trade feels worth it during the early weeks. For acne retinoid options, compare adapalene and tretinoin and their differences in tolerability.
How to Apply Around the Eyes, Nose and Mouth
Tretinoin tends to irritate the thin, creased areas of the face first. A small amount of the 345 cream on these areas acts as a guard. Then apply tretinoin to the rest of the face as normal.
Common problem spots are the corners of the nose, the lines beside the mouth and the outer eye area. Peeling at the mouth corners is a frequent complaint during British winters. A dab of cream there before tretinoin can reduce that cracked feeling. A thicker balm may still be needed on very dry nights.
A pea sized amount of tretinoin usually covers the whole face. Using more does not speed up results. It only adds dryness, which no moisturizer can fully undo. Compare tretinoin strengths by skin concern, then review 0.025%, 0.05% and 0.1% creams with your prescriber.
Using the 345 Cream With Azelaic Acid
The 345 cream and azelaic acid work well in the same routine. Apply azelaic acid first to clean skin, let it absorb, then follow with the cream. Both are generally seen as gentle choices for spot prone and redness prone skin. The cream can ease the tingling some people feel from azelaic acid.
Azelaic acid can feel slightly gritty or drying, especially in cream form. A light moisturizer on top makes the finish more comfortable. The 345 cream's gel texture usually sits well over azelaic acid. If you notice pilling, wait a little longer between layers and use less of each. Our azelaic acid vs salicylic acid guide separates mark care from pore care.
Niacinamide and Azelaic Acid in the Same Routine
Niacinamide and azelaic acid are commonly paired, and there is no known clash between them. Both may help with uneven tone and visible redness through different routes. Using the 345 cream over azelaic acid adds a modest amount of niacinamide. This is not a reason to add a separate niacinamide serum as well.
Stacking several niacinamide products is a frequent mistake. High total amounts may cause flushing or stinging in some people. If you already use a niacinamide serum, the 345 cream may be enough on its own. A short routine also makes it easier to spot what causes any reaction.
Morning or Evening for Azelaic Acid?
Azelaic acid can be used morning or evening, unlike tretinoin. Many people on tretinoin move azelaic acid to the morning. This keeps the two apart and lowers the chance of irritation. In the morning, the 345 cream goes on after azelaic acid and before SPF.
Azelaic acid does not raise sun sensitivity in the way tretinoin can. Daily SPF still matters for marks, though. UV exposure can darken existing marks and undo slow progress. For pigment pathways, compare tranexamic acid and azelaic acid.
Can You Use Tretinoin, Azelaic Acid and the 345 Cream Together?

Yes, many people use all three, but not usually all at once. A common pattern is azelaic acid in the morning and tretinoin at night. The 345 cream follows each one. This spreads the stronger ingredients across the day and keeps the cream as the steady base.
Layering tretinoin and azelaic acid in the same evening is possible for well adjusted skin. It is not a good starting point, though. Begin with one ingredient, let your skin settle for several weeks, then add the second slowly.
Here is a simple six week structure many UK readers can adapt:
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Weeks 1 to 2: tretinoin two or three nights a week, with the 345 cream around it. No azelaic acid yet.
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Weeks 3 to 4: tretinoin on alternate nights if skin feels calm. The 345 cream after each use.
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Weeks 5 to 6: azelaic acid on two or three mornings, then the 345 cream and SPF.
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Week 7 onwards: build each one up slowly, and only if skin stays comfortable.
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Morning |
Tretinoin night |
Rest night |
|
Gentle cleanser |
Gentle cleanser, then pat dry |
Gentle cleanser |
|
Azelaic acid, once introduced |
Thin layer of 345 cream, optional |
345 cream in a slightly fuller layer |
|
345 Relief Cream |
Pea sized amount of tretinoin |
Richer balm on dry patches, optional |
|
Broad spectrum SPF 30 or higher |
345 Relief Cream |
Nothing else needed |
Our analysis shows that routines tend to go wrong when both ingredients start in the same week. When irritation appears, it becomes hard to tell which one caused it. A slower plan makes problems far easier to trace.
Signs the 345 Cream Is Not Suiting Your Skin
Most people find the 345 cream easy to use, but it does not suit everyone. Watch for small closed bumps, lasting stinging, or skin that still feels tight after applying. These signs suggest the cream is the wrong match. They do not mean your retinoid routine is failing.
Closed comedones are the complaint raised most often in online discussions. These are small, skin coloured bumps, often on the forehead or chin. They can be confused with tretinoin purging. Purging tends to appear where you usually break out and fade within weeks. Bumps that keep appearing in new places may point to the moisturizer instead.
Stinging is the second common complaint. Tea tree leaf water and niacinamide are possible triggers on irritated skin. Yet stinging on freshly peeling skin can come from almost anything. Try the cream on a small patch of calm skin first, such as the side of the neck.
Signs to record in a simple skin diary:
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Small closed bumps in new areas after two to three weeks
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Stinging that lasts beyond a minute on skin that is not peeling
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Tight, flaky skin by morning, even after a full layer
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Pilling or rolling over azelaic acid or under SPF i.e. Sunroof or UV Doux gel
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Redness or itching that appears only on days you use the cream
If these continue, stop the cream for a week and see whether things settle. Change only one product at a time.
UK Weather, Hard Water and Daily SPF

UK conditions shape how the 345 cream performs alongside tretinoin. Central heating and cold winds dry skin out from roughly October to March. Hard water across much of England can add to that tight feel. Many people need a richer layer in winter than in summer.
The 345 cream is light by design. Many reviewers find it enough from spring to early autumn. In winter, some keep it for mornings and use a thicker balm at night. Others apply two thin layers rather than one heavy one.
Hard water is common in London, the South East and East Anglia. It can leave mineral residue that feels drying after cleansing. Patting skin fully dry before tretinoin helps, because damp skin can increase stinging. Some people switch to a cream cleanser on tretinoin nights.
Daily SPF is not optional with tretinoin, even under grey skies. UVA passes through clouds and window glass all year. Use a broad spectrum SPF 30 or higher every morning. The 345 cream sits well under most sunscreens, but give it a minute to settle first.
Who Should Take Extra Care With This Routine
Some readers should pause before building a tretinoin routine around any moisturizer. This includes anyone pregnant, trying to conceive or breastfeeding. It also includes people with broken skin or eczema flares on the face. Personal advice from a qualified professional is the safer first step in these situations.
Tretinoin is not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Azelaic acid is often regarded as a gentler option at these times. That choice still belongs with a qualified professional who knows your history. The 345 cream itself contains no retinoids.
Sensitized skin needs a slower plan. If your skin burns, weeps or cracks, stop tretinoin and azelaic acid. Keep only a gentle cleanser, a plain moisturizer and SPF until it calms. Then restart slowly at a lower frequency.
People with very oily or congestion prone skin should also watch closely. The silicones and fatty alcohols in the 345 cream suit many pore types, but not all. A two week patch test along the jawline can show how your pores respond.
FAQ's of Dr. Althea 345 Relief Cream
Can I use Dr. Althea 345 Relief Cream every night with tretinoin?
Yes, it can be used every night, including nights you skip tretinoin. It contains no retinoid or exfoliating acid. On rest nights, it helps skin recover from peeling. Use a fuller layer then.
Does the 345 cream make tretinoin weaker?
Applied on top, it should not change much. Applied underneath as a buffer, it may soften the effect slightly. Many beginners accept that trade for less peeling in the early weeks.
Should azelaic acid go before or after the 345 cream?
Azelaic acid goes first, on clean skin. Let it absorb for a minute or two. Then apply the 345 cream to soften the finish and ease any tingling.
Can the 345 cream fade post spot marks without azelaic acid?
It may help a little, mainly through niacinamide. Progress is usually slow and modest on its own. Marks often respond better when a dedicated ingredient, such as azelaic acid, is also used.
Is the 345 cream rich enough for dry skin in a British winter?
For many people, it feels too light on its own from late autumn. Two thin layers can help. Some keep it for daytime and switch to a thicker balm at night.
Can I swap tretinoin for retinol and still use the 345 cream?
Yes, the same layering ideas apply to retinol. Retinol is usually milder than tretinoin, so buffering is often less needed. The cream still suits nights when skin feels tight.
Why does the 345 cream sting after tretinoin?
Freshly peeling skin can sting with almost any product. Tea tree leaf water and niacinamide may add to it. If stinging lasts beyond a minute on calm skin, the cream may not suit you.
How long should I test the 345 cream before judging it?
Give it around two to three weeks in a small area first. Closed bumps from a moisturizer usually show within that time. Avoid starting any other new product during the test.
Conclusion
Dr. Althea 345 Relief Cream earns its place as the calm, hydrating layer around tretinoin or azelaic acid. It does not do their job. Based on our findings, it works best as a buffer in the first weeks, then as a steady final step. Pair it with daily SPF, introduce one stronger ingredient at a time, and watch for closed bumps. Read more skincare guides on skincareproduct.co.uk to plan a routine that suits your skin. Compare all skincare products by format and role before adding another step.